Mids or Forwards?

It seems like a basic enough query to ponder: mids or forwards? 

It's a loaded question. If you’ve got many years of riding under your belt, you probably have an answer to that already. But if you’re new to cruisers, Harley-Davidsons, or modified bikes, it’s reasonable to start thinking about what you might find most suitable before you spend your money.

Generally speaking, rearsets (seen on the orange motorcycle in the image and found on many race replica motorcycles) do what they say: they position your feet behind you when you’re on the bike. You won’t find these on most cruisers; instead, they’re the domain of sport bikes and customs done up in a café style. We won't focus much on those in this article.

Forwards put your feet out in front of you, much as if you were to sit in a chair. And mid controls split that difference as their name would imply. With "true" mids, your feet are closer to being directly beneath you. In practice, the mid controls on many Harleys position your feet slightly ahead of straight down.

At TC Bros. we offer kits for popular motorcycles to swap out mids and forwards. Sometimes it’s hard to try to find someone with the opposite setup you have who just so happens to want to trade parts at the exact same time. And if you want to retain your OE setup for future resale value, trading may not even be an option. That’s where we come in.

Which should I choose?

There’s no wrong answer; you need your feet in the spot that makes you comfortable. Confidence on the machine is the key to stayin’ safe. The right parts to maximize your control of the bike will naturally differ from rider to rider. 

Mid controls: good for command of the machine when balance isn't optimal

You should choose mids (seen above) if you prioritize an aggressive stance and better control of the bike, possibly at the expense of physical discomfort after many miles. If you want a more active and reactive riding position, mids make it easier to stand on the pegs. This can be important over rough terrain to reposition your body on the machine. If you’re doing anything where you need to rapidly shift your weight on the motorcycle, mids are the platform to choose. If you're building a scrambler, Dirtster, canyon carver, or stunt machine, mids are probably the controls that will suit your bike best. The downside here is that some riders, though, can feel “cramped up” on a mids-equipped machine, especially ones like Harley that combine mids with low seat heights.

Forward controls: good for casual jaunts and simplicity in building

Want that “in the recliner” feeling? Forwards (seen above) put your feet out in front of you, much as if you were to sit in a chair. Forwards have a relaxed position, which can contribute to reduced fatigue on longer rides. And due to the interference from the primary, cam cover, and exhaust, forwards are often the easier option if you’re building a bike from scratch; the area ahead of the engine isn’t so “busy.” Many taller riders prefer forward controls. Since the seat is fixed on a motorcycle, the logical way to gain leg room is to move the controls forward. The downside with forward controls is that you’re often “stuck” in one position on the bike, and it’s hard to move around for relief when a muscle group demands it—often you have to stop, walk around, and then get back into that exact same spot. This can be exacerbated on motorcycles with controls that are very far forward and bikes with hardtails or poor rear suspension—the rider’s spine can absorb a lot of the imperfections in the road that shocks may transmit through the chassis.

Is a TC Bros. set of controls right for me?

We have a few different mids controls options, from our standard kits right up to the stylish Pro Series mids we make. Construction is the same across both styles—heavy duty. 

When we design and build mids, we pay attention to a few key areas that we think make ours the best. We invite you to stack us up against the competition in a few areas of note:

Mounts

Expect heavy-duty steel with a durable powder coated finish, stylish designs, without skulls or excessive chrome on our standard kits. Pro Series mids are a step above: we machine billets of aluminum here in the USA and they display eye-poppingly attractive machining. They're strong and light.

Footpegs

Standard mids and forwards kits can be purchased with our pegs or as bare mid controls if desired. Our kits accept standard 1977-and-up Harley-Davidson male-mount footpegs—the aftermarket standard. if you prefer to run your OE pegs, you can. Or you can choose from many other popular aftermarket pegs—even ones from other manufacturers. If you elect to add our pegs to one of our kits, know that they’re all CNC-machined from 6061-T6 billet aluminum, with positive traction features like deep knurling or replaceable cleats. They’re also made here in the USA.

Pivots

Unlike many factory setups, our mid and forward controls feature low-maintenance, self-lubricating, replaceable bronze oil-impregnated bushings for a lifetime of smooth operation. We challenge you to try to wear a set out.

Extras

Most kits contain premium fasteners and linkages to make the swap easier and you’ll also find detailed installation instructions in the box.

There’s one more thing worth considering that's sort of an intangible, and that's support, especially long after you've ordered. TC Bros. stocks and sells every part of your kit individually. Being close to the ground, controls can and do get damaged in tipovers and crashes. If you bust up your TC Bros. controls, call us. We’ll pick up the phone, ask you if you're okay, and then sell you the pieces you need so you can start riding again affordably—we don't expect you to buy a whole new set if you just need one part.

Is there anything else I should know?

Yes! We encourage you to read on what parts are needed to make the swap. Some motorcycles are very straightforward—you can take our controls out of the box, unbolt your old ones, and you’re out riding shortly thereafter. Many Harley-Davidson Sportsters, for instance, are easy to swap back and forth. 

Other kits can require additional parts depending on what year and model you have, and how the bike came to be in its present condition—did an owner convert it or is it a factory-shipped unit? A good example might be the Harley-Davidson Dyna Wide Glide. Those have no shifter shaft running through the primary. A swap to mid controls on that is going to be significantly more different than on a bike where the shift shaft and inspection cover were left in place. 

No matter what you ride, examine your motorcycle and IPDs/fiche to see what parts you may need to complete the swap. We’re always available to help if you have questions about installing one of our kits. 

Once you check those items off your list, all you’ve got to do is get comfy with the idea of gettin’ comfy!